Friday, July 25, 2008

THE roadtrip - days 1-7

A detailed account of 23 days of travel, one month later, would be fraught with the inaccuracies of amnesia. So, good thing I scribbled in the car as we went along. Welcome to blog of excerpt of journal....

DAY 1: 25 May 08
We depart from Santa Rosa - a full van of 6 people - the french girls, Laure and Fiona, Cara, John (berkeley local and last minute addition), Brian and myself.

DAY 2:
'Once on the road we headed towards Bodie... a ghost town. Games to get to know each other... John went to 'Burning Man' - a hippie festival... interesting story...mmm. We spent the night with an amazing family in Crawley Lake near Mammoth Lake. They were fantastic! So generous, so kind, so energetic!... From mammoth Lakes we headed towards Bishop on the way to Death Valley.

DAY 3: 27th May
At Bishop we stopped for petrol... we took the road from there to Death Valley, on the way stopping at Manzanaar Internee Center where American/Japanese were held during WWII... The ranges here were awesome! On one side a red/brown spread stretching as far as you could see across one side of the freeway. On the other side, directly opposite, great tall snow covered mountains. Monstrous size!... I drove through first 1/2 of Death Valley... first time driving since a year when I left Australia... So John decided to leave our group today in Vegas...he felt it was too rushed...

... We had some fun late at night when Brian was driving, I was in the passenger seat, John was leaning over in between us and everyone else was pretty much asleep. We played a word association game and then asked each other random hypotheticals...we got off topic...

We're on the road to Grand Canyon right now....

DAY 5: 29th May
We're leaving Grand Canyon today. It's 9:43am. We arrived at GC on the night of 27th may - pretty much just showered and had dinner. Brian cooked pasta in marinara sauce - really good. In the morning we headed off for a hike... the hike down (and up) was amazing. As soon as I saw the flat topped mountains in the background, yellow cliffs dotted with vivid green in the foreground on the right and red/brown barren cliffs on the left. A cracked face with dry shrubs growing, pushing their way through... we set off around 11:30am, and got back to the top at 4:20pm - a 5hr hike around about. I took 100s of pictures... We met a sweet couple on the way up. The woman was particularly friendly. She reminded me of the beauty pageant winner from 'Miss Congeniality' except with brown hair. We met an Austrian guy on the lookout we stopped at for the sunset. We hiked along the south rim of the canyon for almost an hour - went from Trailview overlook to Powell Point. Sunset and overlook was great. Sun took fricking long to set... relaxing. enjoying the company...

... Brian and I bumped into Christian at the general store when we went looking to buy beer. A kid on our way in asked if we would buy tequila for him - said the police pulled them over and took all their alcohol and weed. .. it was a fun night. We were sharing our campsite with Ruth - a teacher, originally form Germany. She was great to talk to about travel, hiking and nature parks...

... We just left the Grand Canyon about 1.5 hrs ago now. .. Cara just said "There were almonds in the bag, but the bag was in the trash, but fell out of the trash and now the almonds are in my hand; can I eat them?", Brian responds, "Yeah"; Cara shoves the almonds from her hand into her mouth! :p

DAY 6: 30th May
We spent last night with Shaunae and Chris in St George - a Mormon couch-surfing couple, 22y/o and 29y/o. I have never met people into such an extraordinary range of extreme sports. Their stories are great - they meat each other hitch-hiking! ...

... Right now we're on the road to Zion National Park - we just passed through the Kolob Canyons - beautiful, tall cliff faced mountains. We met up with Max from Vegas this morning... So we just came out of Zion NP. Wow! We hiked to Angel's Landing which took us about 6hrs return... Crazy (and dangerous) climbing up rocks, isolated cliff faces to the summit of the rock stack... Cara had to help a lady down who had already made it up but got scared on the way down.... I did feel nervous when I climbed to the top rock of the first high landing - 'landing' sounds a little too broad - it was more of a foot square flat area on top of a high rock stack... I was balancing on a square of rock thousands of metres high! It feels like you're on top of the word there. The birds swoosh by you and you can hear the air moving. You look down and either side of you, left and right, there is a huge drop... We continued on to another landing top; across an almost bridge-like structure created out of rock...

... We're home now. Back at Shaunae and Chris's. A shower! Dinner! Sleep!

DAY 7: 31 May
Tired. angry. annoyed. It's about 6am after waking up at 5:15am. We spent the night at Zion National Park, sharing a campground with Travis and Chuck - both of whom we met on the shuttle and did the River Walk to the Narrows with...

Days 8-15

DAY 8: 1 June
Bryce. Beautiful. Different completely from Zion. This is rock formations, crazy, like looking down on an army clad in red. Zion was green, mountainous river and trickling waterfalls... But Bryce is unique. The trees are twisted in picasso-style formations... Our horse guide was a laugh and a half. A rodeo, originally from Nevada, who was a terrible flirt - no, a man-whore - who shared with us a very detailed financial outline of how much he earns... who took time to flex his muscles and roll his sleeves high so we could see his tats - and who swung his arm around Fiona when she made a trip to the toilet asking how she was doing when she had gone to use the bathroom. Hilarious...

... After the horseride, Fiona, Max and I did the 'moderate' about 3.5hr hike - Hat Shop and a little bit further... I got back at 5:30pm. Then we did the Rim walk from Bryce Point to Inspiration Point... from there we hiked to Sunset Point...

DAY 9: 2 June
Drove from Bryce National Park to Capitol Reef.

DAY 10: 3 June
Left Capitol Reef today - stopped off at Randy's bakehouse again on the way out. We were there yesterday talking with him (Randy) for a good hour I think. Currently on 24 highway heading to Salt Lake City. He was an interesting guy to talk with. Hippie. Originally from San Diego?... He was very much into sustainable living and had worked, saved, to buy his own farm... He talked about the RV tracks that stained the mountains in the park and his court case and now current litigation to stop this... Indians had taught him about the land... How one man had told him to go and speak with the mountains...

...Capitol Reef was beautiful. It's a shame we didn't have the time to do a hike.... The rocks are red as blood...

DAY 11: 4 June
Yesterday Max left early in the morning. Brian left the previous day. I lost my Ipod!.. We slept on the couches of 3 bachelors in Salt Lake City - Lance, Steve, Joey. We're returning tonight and probably hit the Piano Bar...

... On the 3rd we drove from Capitol Reef straight to SLC airport to drop off Brian, who got there about 1/2 hr before his flight was sue to leave...

... The french girls and I spent the day together. Cara went swimming this morning for her back...Not a whole lot to do (in Salt Lake City).. other than ski and snowboard... Today we saw the Utah Fine Arts Museum... lunched it up at Red Rock restaurant... Yesterday = 'conversion day'. Utah is Mormon. Joseph Smith colonized it and he is called a prophet today... The tour of the Tabernacle (where the world famous choir sings) and the visitor's center, was more of an exercise in conversion. Little did we learn about the buildings or the establishment of the faith, of facts and figures, much did we learn about how much Jesus loves us, and loves us, and loves us!

DAY 13: 6 June
SLC would've been shit had it not been for our cool hosts - Lance, Joey and Steve. Met up with Cara at around 8pm to hear the Tabernacle choir sin in the Latter Day Saints Convention Center. They were pretty amazing. 350 voices... Last night we all hit the Piano Bar - awesome fun. 'F&F' - 'fun & funny' - running joke within the group; born because the french girls weren't sure of the difference between 'fun' and 'funny'. The Piano Bar was too baby grand pianos, arse-to-arse, with two men sitting at them playing and singing song requests. $5 to request a song, $7 to have your song request cancel the one currently playing.. and so on...

... Today we're leaving SLC. We just picked up Ryan and went supermarket shopping. Got so much shit.. Van is freaking heavy...Ryan's host, Bruce, found us accommodation in Jackson for our fist night there, whilst we were out supermarket shopping and stocked us up with raisins, oats and chocolate candy canes... he was so amazingly generous...

... Just pulled over by Officer Grey Knutti - driving 46 in 35 mile zone. Thank goodness Laure was driving - they can't do much with a French driver and driving license. Woohoo! First cop experience in 12 days!


Days 16-24

DAY 16: 9 June
...yesterday we did the West Thumb trail through geysers and hot springs... the roads were blocked... we then drove to Old Faithful - saw the massive geyser erupt... it was snowing, raining and cold...

... We're driving through Yellowstone at the moment - just came from the Firehole Canyon drive, a loop just near our camp site at Madison. The first fall we saw, the Firehole River, was hypnotising... Today - Monora's Geyser Basin - desert plains of hot springs, mud spring, steam vents. Heading to Upper Falls - amazing!.. We did a hike of he north and south side of the rim...

... we just stopped to see a stone-turned tree stump, the 'Petrified Tree'.

DAY 17: 10 June
Met Robert, Rosemarie's roommate last night at the Blue Goose Bar... (we spent 2 nights with Robert and Rosemarie couch surfing)... Interesting book collections - Aristotle’s Nicomachean Ethics, Why Men Won't Commit, How to Win Friends and Influence People, Zen...

Quotes from the day:
Cara: It's a moose. And it's running! / Laure: It's a running moose!

We just crossed into Wyoming! Gardiner (where Robert and Rosemarie live) is in Montana. Yellowstone is in Idaho. Now we're in Wyoming. Salt Lake City is in Utah. We crossed 4 states in 4 days! Craziness. It's snowing heavily now. We're on our way to Cody and as we passed through the park we spotted a bear.. yay!

DAY 19: 12 June
Some quotes:
"The appearance of a rock, like the appearance of a person, tells you something about he sort of life it has had" - Mediations at 10,000 feet, James E. Trefil

Laure and Cara went horseriding with Pat and her niece Laura today (Pat and her husband Dan were our couch surfing hosts in Cody). Fiona, Ryan and I hit the Old Trail Town (museum) - re-constructed original log cabins where characters from the late 19th C plotted bank and train robberies.

DAY 20: 13 June
On the way to Gillette now. Left Pat and Dan's this morning... drove through Byron, now on the way to Medicine Wheel before hitting Gillette.

DAY 21: 14 June
Never made it to Medicine Wheel - road closed due to snow. Blew a tyre on the way from Cody to Gillette though!... We spent the night with couch surfing couple Scott and Monica. Nice people. Scary that they keep 13 guns under their bed...

...Nothing of excitement during the day - drove from Cody, to Lovell, to Sheridan... We just came from Devil's Tower now. A big flat rock. Pretty cool hexagonal column-like cylinders sling onto its sides... the name Devil's Tower was given by an explorer - the Native Indians called it variations of Bear Lodge...

... passed through Deadwood where the was a music festival going on. A historic town. So many bars. Men and women twirling, dancing in pairs, fold out camping chairs lined up in rows, motor bikes, grey beards, pokie machines, yellow lights, black and white pictures...

DAY 22: 15 June
Last night we arrived at Rapid City, after driving through the beautiful Black Hills. We met Chris, couch surfer host, at his place where another 2 couch surfing groups already were. 2 girls heading to Seattle... and 3 others in a group - Monica, Joey, Shaun. They were a lot of fun. We went camping with them and Chris because there wasn't enough room in Chris's small apartment to fit us all!... Camping was so much fun. such a random Idea...We played Mafia... Fiona and I made pasta...

... We visited Mt Rushmore... The Ranger went on and on about the Constitution and the Declaration of Independence...(*explicit*) conservatives. Road boards anti-abortion - 'Your mother was pro-life'. (*explicit*) paraphernalia.

Just got out of Jewel Cave... We did a drive by Crazy Horse, the Indian Mt Rushmore...

DAY 24: 18 June
So road trip is over. I'm back in Berkeley and just got back from dinner at La Meditrranae with Ashley and coffee/hot chocolate with Emmi... 17th was my last day on roadtrip. I flew out of Rapid City at 12:20pm. On the 16th the french girls left from the Greyhound station. Incredibly we ran into the waitress who served us the night before...It was sad to see the french girls leave...

... The afternoon was pretty chilled... I explored some of historic downtown. This is when I discovered Art Alley - blooming with vibrant colours, touching sketches and powerful political messages... we went down to Rat Shack... I scored some great finds, a bag and boots and 2 Sturgis tops...I was keen to go climbing!... Rock climbing was FANTASTIC!...Chris recognised no boundaries when it came to trusting others.... He trusted me, a beginner, with his rope as a belaying partner for a climb he knew would be outside his comfort zone... he also trusted 2 strangers with his apartment while he went out camping... Beer soup and beer bread at the Old Firehouse for dinner. Good music. Good food...

...This has been an adventure. Incredible. The people.... the laughs. The stupid jokes. The police and the rangers...the spontaneous moments... exhaustion. Exhilaration...

Thursday, June 26, 2008

The travels before Berkeley

I left home, it was the 17th July I think. I was setting off for 3 weeks of solo travel, mostly, after tackling the 20hr flight to London. London was time with Annie - ballet friend of about 4-5 yrs, Latin dancer extraordinaire, a good friend, and one of the kindest people I've had the benefit of knowing. We shopped, and clubbed, and drank red wine and ate overpriced pasta, and took a dance class at Pineapple studios, grabbed the bargains at Portobello markets, sat in the 'must pay' seats in the park until we got kicked off, and took the late night bus back to her house in Surrey in the wee hours of the morning.

France was next. Lyon first. Then Nice. Lyon is old skool. Traditional. Friendly. Scary at night. Yummy pastry shops around every corner. Tapestry district. First films by the Lumiere brothers. Cheese with baguette. Fresh fruit and veg markets. Sock shopping because British Airways lost my luggage. Train to Nice. Over-touristy. Luggage still lost. Boulevard des Anglais. Beach entry fees. Themed beaches. Russian church, which closed just before I got there, yet the tour group on the bus were allowed through despite their arriving later. Nice Jazz festival, Simply 7 acoustic group, churros, standing on a tree to see, memorable night. Back to Lyon. Still no luggage. Fly to Rome.
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Italy = Contiki! Nick-named 'Piccola' by the hotel staff in Orvietto, meaning 'little' in Italian. It spread among the group and soon became synonymous with Patrice. So Rome, Orvieto, Sienna, Pisa, Florence and lots of little Tuscan villages in between. Clear beach, ball games, hot tanned Italian guys, pasta cooking, truffle hunting, clubbing, stain-glass churches and museums, 40 minute power shopping in Florence, the smell of leather in shops, those colour-coordinated Italian women with matching boots, bag, coat and hair dye. Fun with the group - Sarah, Laurel, Toni and many others.... let's not forget the group leader, Amadeus... and along with him come the girls who hopped from one Contiki to the next, unquestionably with the object of spending more time with him. Aw poor dears.

Greece for 2 weeks! 4 Islands! One person! A bunch of rude Greeks, good food, some bad food (poisoning), good tan, bad hotel room, good - no great - beaches, ancient ruins, museums, donkeys, hot springs, random kind Athenian tourists in Naxos who shared their day with me. So first stop was Athens. A couple of nights in the hostel there, then I checked by bag into storage and hit the islands with a backpack. Ferry to Mykonos from Pireaus port in Athens. A rough ride, and feeling a bit sick on arrival. I get there at 10pm at night with no place to stay. People are crowded around the port where the ferry docks when I arrive. Photos, laminated booklets, business cards, all in your face, talking, shouting, trying to get your business. 50 euro per night for a single person. So I end up asking 2 random girls if they wanted to share a room and split the cost. We do. They are Irene and Eraitz. We hit the town, ride on their scooter and eat fetta and salami for dinner on the balcony of the house we're staying at. I take a day trip to Delos - place of most sunlight, hot, ruins pirated to construct the Acropolis and other structures in Athens. A detailed history... but I can't remember it all... it's somewhere in my writitngs.

Next stop Naxos. Not so touristy. Do take a bus into Ano Mera, middle of nowhere. Do get lost in an olive grove looking for a Byzantine church and have to get a motorbike ride by a local back into the main town area. Spend a day with Athenian tourists, Nick and Zoe, searching for ancient temples and castles (which we find), spend some time at St Anna's beach?, get treated to a 4/5 course lunch complete with Ouzo (strong liquorice-tasting Greek liquor) and dropped off home at the end of the day. Lovely people. I recall swimming in the water just a couple of 100 metres from where the ferries and boats are docked in the main town area. It's as if people are walking down the street, decide they get hot, then jump off the side of the street into the water.

Santorini to follow. I thank my lucky stars for making it through the bus ride up the edge of the cliff from the port to the city. Psycho drivers, taking those corners ridiculously fast and ridiculously close to the edge. Santorini is picturesque. I see a sunset from Oia, with American girl Erin I meet on the day-trip. We glass-bottomed boated it to the small islands - the volcanic crater, the hot springs, take a donkey up one of the islands and decide to walk the way back down. We shared dinner (dolmathes, crisp bread and feta) on the side of a wall in Oia as we watched the famous sunset there. Turning around, I feel like I'm seated for a rock-concert. Swarms of people are doing the same as us. People standing, sitting, wherever they can to watch the light fall and fade below the horizon.

Corfu is my last island visit. Completely different from the ones before. Venetian influenced. Gorgeous buildings, despite their run-down appearance. I decided to food-poison myself here by eating feta cheese after it had been left out in the hot unairconditioned refrigeratorless room overnight. Mmm not good. Made it to Achillon Palace the next day nonetheless though. Love Sisi's furniture and the murals on the ceiling and painted belly of the stairwell. The Achilles statute in the backyard, also pretty impressive. Drank frappe on the walkway beside the spiniada, swam in the water, random walks around the city on the religious public holiday I arrived (which left me wondering why everything was so quiet, until I realised it was the Virgin Mary's day).

A couple of nights back in Athens, checking out Ammonia and the Benaki museum - where you could spend days and still not cover it all. Flew out to Frankfurt, to change planes before hitting the US! Excitement to hit Berkeley at last after weeks of full days of walking, scarce showers, eating on the go and constantly changing surroundings. I loved it, but it was nice to have a place to call home for a while. I met my suite mates at Foothill and they were so nice, setting me up with everything including sheets and 'comforter' (read: doona) for as longs as I needed until I could hit a Target. Classes started. I made the treck down the hill in the morning, listening to the likes of Creed and Sting, then made the thigh-building climb back up the hill in the afternoons. Late mornings were consumed by sleeping on Memorial Glade - a big green grassy patch near the Doe Library, which attracted a great morning sun - or reading/sleeping in the old fashioned Reading Room in Doe. I loved ancient philosophy seminars. I was always late to my 8am Case Studies in Economic Development. And sometimes I slept in it. Other times I slept through it and never got there. Overeating in the buffet style dining commons and swiping in cards to register use of meal points we had been allocated. Hitting the frats with Marion and Nairi. Seeing the red cups, and the disgusting toilets and kitchens. Clubbing in San Francisco. Nights out with Sean, Neil and Nat - the aussie exchange students. These were some of the memories of semester 1, Fall semester, at Berkeley

Thursday, June 19, 2008

The Year that Berkeley Stole My Heart

So, I'm sitting at Cafe Strada, renowned Bancroft coffee and free WiFi hot spot. It's 19th June 2008 and I'm due to fly back to Australia tonight. I've just spend 1 amazing year away, traveling Europe and the states, learning great things in my classes and meeting beautiful people. Why do I decide to start a blog just now?! - too busy having too much fun and seeing too many things to have done it earlier perhaps. No.. I'm just lazy and backwards!

I don't know where to start! I'm really going to miss this place. Its tree people, the smell of weed as you walk through that's a pungent as toilet freshner, the hippie tie-dyed tops lining Telegraph avenue, People's Park where the homeless are welcome, the politically minded voicing their opinions by Sather Gate, the organic food stand run by the students.. and then there's my room-mates, my dance team, my class-mates, my teachers and GSIs, and those random Berkeley personalities that are always in the same spot doing the same thing - the guy playing chess and guitar outside Dwinelle Hall, the polite and well-wishing homeless man outside Subway, the 'Everybody's Happy' man standing on his upturned box with a board covered in small-print propaganda.

I've met some amazing people here. Kind and generous, curious and ever-seeking knowledge, aware and motivated, ambitious, optimistic, and pessimistic, frustrated and wanting change, wanting to make change, party-loving, fun-loving, people-loving, music-loving, dancing-loving!

And I've visited some amazing places. Before I arrived in Berkeley I spend a month traveling through London, Lyon and Nice in France, Tuscany on a Contiki, then Athens, Mykonos, Naxos, Santorini and Corfu in Greece. Over the Winter break here I spend Christmas with Nairi, my suite-mate from Foothill, in LA. I spent New Years in New York with Vanessa, a high school friend from Adelaide, and Connie, a girl from Austria she studied with on exchange in Calgary, Canada. A week in Boston saw me visiting family I'd never met, and others I didn't know I had! Semester 2 (Spring) came and went, just as did the first. Always too fast. I returned from a 24 day road trip through the mid-West states 2 days ago. Truly a fantastic experience. We hit Nevada, Arizona, Utah, Idaho, Montana, Wyoming and South Dakota. Our group composition changed about 6 times, a total of 11 people including myself were road-tripping with us at one point or another. I'll always remember these weeks... because I've written them, captured them on film and because I'll always have those other people to remind me of everything my terrible memory will forget!

Enough talk for now. A picture can say a thousand words. So I'll upload a few thousand pictures and hopefully that will give you a better indication of what I've been up to since I left Oz last year, than my babble ever will be able to convey!